Marseille is one of the most interesting cities in France since it is a multicultural crossroad opened on the world. It may be for its heritage, its harbor or it’s sun, it is very hard not to fall in love with this town. MAMA let herself caught by the happiness that reigns in Marseille to deliver you the best tips to a perfect stay.
MAMA says let’s eat
Marseille is full of good places to eat, so if you want to try another restaurant than our, no problem ! Just try La Cantinetta, Les Gamins, Le Marengo Bistroquet, Dunk, Le Bobolivo, La Grotte, Le Grand Bar des Goudes, Les Panisses, Eratempu, Le Mole, Les Grandes Tables de la Friche, La Tasca, Le Bistrot de l’Horloge, Le Baron Perché...
MAMA says go out
Trying to escape from a Pastaga and pétanque party ? Here is a short list of the best bars and clubs in town: Carry Nation, U-percut, Baletti, Duke, Club XO, La Part des Anges, The Queen Victoria, Trolley Bus, Jack’s, La Dame noir.
MAMA says educate yourself
Don’t quit Marseille without taking a bath of culture! Don't stay in your room all day, even if the design by Starck and the comfort is worth to lay in your bed and just enjoy. Except the must-see Mucem that highlights all the Mediterranean history, you can appreciate great cultural experiences at the fine arts Museum, the MAC, the Mediterranean Villa or the Town Hall.
MAMA says let’s shop
Trying to bring back home something more original than a soap of Marseille? Our shop is waiting for you with its treasures. But we also picked you up a list of shops that will make you spend the afternoon looking around for awesome stuff: La Réserve à bulles, Oggie’s Lifestore , VIDEODROME , Fifty Balloons, Galette Records, Soffee shop, L’atelier mobile des fées Bizart, Peter Pan, Autour de l’Enfant.
MAMA says don’t miss
In Marseille, it is really easy to get amazed by so many things to see. The stairs of the Cours Julien, the Boulodrome, the Estaque harbor, the Diamond house. Feeling like taking a bath in a turquoise
sea ? Just take a walk to the Calanques.
- By subway (Castellane)
- By subway (Notre Dame du Mont Cours Julien)
- By subway (Baille)
- By tramway (stop Eugene Pierre)
- By bus (stop Baille - Vertus)
- By bus (stop Metro Castellane)
- By bus (stop Metro Notre Dame du Mont)
- La Maison Hantée
- L'Estaminet Matinal
- Le Marengo
- Le Jardin d'à Côté
- Pussy Twister
- Le Pavillon Thaï
- Le Rajasthan
- Le Petit Nice
- La Boite à Sardine
- Le Dernier Métro
- La Cantinetta
- La Tasca
- Chez Toinou
- Le Comptoir Dugommier
- Chez Noël
- Chez Dimitri
- La Gaoudina
- La Tarraillette
- Le Casa No Name
- Le Zingachor
- Le Cours en Vert
- Le Bar des Maraîchers
- Bar Le Champagne
- La Baie du Dragon
- Les 3 Louches
- Le Baraki
- Le Nain Jaune
- La Dame Noir
- Les Gamins
- Le Roi du Poulet
- Les Foulards Rouges
- Le Bar de la Plaine
- Le Café Vian
- Chez Sauveur
- Le Bistrot Vénitien - Chez Marie
- Le Carthage
- Les Pieds Dans le Plat
- Le Bobolivo
- La Grotte
- Rue Terrusse
- Place du Chien Saucisse
- les rues du Cours Julien
- Les escaliers du Cours Julien
- Maison Castel
- Boulodrome Les trois Mages
- La montée de la grande côte
- Le Pétrin de Provence
- La Cigogne d'Alsace
- Mina Kouk
- L'Arte della Pasta
- L'Art de la Fromagerie
- Epicerie l’Univers Alimentaire
- Patrice's Bagel Store
- Chez Gilda
- Biscuit & Biscuit
- Pick Me Up
- L’Éléphant Rose à Pois Blancs
- Snack Piment Thaï
- Camion pizza
- Les 4 saisons d'Estelle
- Galerie Seize
- Eglise Notre-Dame-du-Mont
- Maison de Fernandel
- Eglise des Réformés
- Vol de nuit
- Atelier Tchikebe
- Palais des Arts
- Le Daki-Ling
- L’atelier-maison de Franck Garam
- Palais Longchamps
- L’Espace Julien
- Le Baby
- Le Baletti
- Le Duke
- Le Club XO
- La Part des Anges
- The Queen Victoria
- Trolley Bus
- Le Jack’s
- La Dame noir
- Le Musée des beaux-Arts
- La Villa Méditerranée
- Hôtel de Ville
- Le Boulodrome
- Le Port de l’Estaque
- La Maison Diamantée
- Galette Records
- Maison Empereur
- La Cave de Baille
- Le Père Blaize
- Coutellerie de Lodi
- Salon Claude
- Au Tour de l'Enfant
- Peter Pan
- Fifty Balloons
- Fietje – Cave à Bières
- Oggie’s Lifestore
- Soffee shop
- L’atelier mobile des fées bizart
Mama Shelter Marseille is ideally located right in the city centre at the 64, rue de la Loubière 13006 Marseille, near the Cours Julien district, an epicentre for urban art, a mix of concert halls, young designers and sunny terraces.
Easily accessed by the metro (Baille, Castellane and Notre Dame-du-Mont stations), Mama Shelter is only 25km from Marseille Provence airport (Shuttle service. By car, take the Autoroute du Soleil, exit Gare Saint Charles), and is only 10 minutes from the train station Gare Saint Charles by taxi. By far the most entertaining way to discover (or rediscover) the city of Marseille, European Capital of Culture 2013.
MAMA SHELTER MARSEILLE
64, rue de la Loubière
T +33 (0)4 84 35 20 00
F +33 (0)4 84 35 20 01
Perhaps you're already happy where you are, but you could be happy in Marseille! We made a great guide for you to avoid buying expensive soaps or bouillabaisse in box! The most typical places, restaurants, bars, shops… You’ll find everything! We listed the coolest things of the district, and you won’t even need to take a car! Trust us, we know all of the beautiful Marseille's secrets!
By subway (Castellane)
Blue line 1 (from la Rose to La Fouragère) & Red line 2 (from Bougainville to Sainte Marguerite - Dromel)
By subway (Notre Dame du Mont Cours Julien)
Red line 2 (from Bougainville to Sainte Marguerite - Dromel)
By subway (Baille)
Blue line 1 (from la Rose to La Fouragère)
By tramway (stop Eugene Pierre)
Tramway line n°1 (from Noailles to Les Caillols)
By bus (stop Baille - Vertus)
Line n°54 (from Les Catalans to Metro La Timone)
By bus (stop Metro Castellane)
Line n°50 (from Metro Castellane to Les Escourtines)
Line n°19 (from Metro Castellane to La Madrague de Montredon)
Line n°21, 21B and 21S (from Canebière Bourse to Luminy or Valmante)
Line n°41S (from Canebière Bourse to Metro Rond Point du Prado)
Line n°54 (from Metro La Timone to Les Catalans)
Line n°73 (from Metro Sainte Marguerite Dromel to Vallon de l'Oriol)
Line n°74 (from Thiers Réformés to Vallon de Montebello)
By bus (stop Metro Notre Dame du Mont)
Line n°74 (from Thiers Réformés to Vallon de Montebello)
La Maison Hantée
Decorated in the true style of a haunted house, this is the place to go if you want to eat genuine food that tastes like your grandmother’s cooking; good Provencal generous dishes (we can recommend the alouettes sans tête (Beef paupiettes) and the lasagnes!)
and they are not expensive either, homemade by Yann, the owner; you can also drink huge pints of beer with bikers, play billiards or even listen to rock concerts. Open from Monday to Saturday from 7.00 p.m. to 2.00 a.m.
10 rue Vian
According to the definition an estaminet is a “gathering of drinkers and smokers” … this is the genuine little neighbourhood bar with its regulars, its “fly” (a Pastis) at €1.50 and its menu of the day at €9 which is unbeatable:
starter/main course/dessert/coffee/wine. It is not indeed fine cuisine but that’s precisely why we like it so much! From Monday to Saturday from 7.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m.
12 place Notre-Dame-du-Mont
Because we love the childhood theme, with Grendizer, the Famous Five and the Delorean, because we can eat out outside in the sun, because we’d kill for their Babybel cheese with its breadcrumb coating, the homemade cordon bleu and the Schokobon milky bite flavoured cake,
and also because there’s a telly in the toilets! While you’re there have a look at the superb mosaic which was found hidden behind a wall during renovation work!
Lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday. Brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
1 rue Marengo
A concept store where you can eat, drink, visit the hairdresser’s, buy books, clothes, CDs, lots of cute articles and even party on a Thursday evening!
Open from Monday to Saturday.
55 Cours Julien
Le Jardin d'à Côté
It’s always a pleasure to be able to sit comfortably in the sun while eating a big plate of homemade French fries (yes homemade they are as the staff spends all morning peeling their potatoes!).
A nice lunchtime restaurant where you can feed bread crumbs to the plump sparrows.
Open from Monday to Saturday, from 12.00 p.m. to 3.30 p.m.
65 Cours Julien
Aussi psychédélique que l’album des Pink Floyd dont est tiré le nom, c’est un petit lieu, sombre, où il ne faut pas oublier de réserver !
L’assiette est (très) bien remplie et en plus on peut faire des blagues avec la carte :
« le commissaire magret », « no veau man no cry », « poulpe fiction »… Ils ont aussi un excellent choix de vins.
Ouvert du mercredi au dimanche, uniquement le soir, de 19h à 23h
26 Rue des Trois Rois
A genuine bikers’ bar with true bikers inside. Rock and only rock, Harley Davidson motorbikes, leather, oil cans, ideal for an aperitif or to drink beers or their mind-blowing punch!
2 rue Crudère
Le Pavillon Thaï
It is not particularly pretty, you always have to wait a while not knowing what to do … but the food is really very good! It’s like going on a journey to Thailand: we love the green curry (which really tastes like green curry)
and the green Thai pancake starter which really fills you up! Closed on Sunday and Monday.
28 Rue des 3 Frères Barthélémy
Indian and Pakistani specialities: choose this restaurant if you want a pleasant evening out with friends as you share the Thalis (small dishes) or if you want to eat generous, good and reasonably priced dishes.
It is difficult to resist the temptation to order something else with the rice and you’re quite right too as everything is good here but bear in mind you won’t finish your plate!
Don’t forget to order the Cheese Naan bread with its three sauces: sweet red raspberry sauce, the green mint sauce and the spicy yellow sauce which is not for the faint of heart!
Open every day from 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and from 7.00 p.m. to midnight
34 Place Notre Dame du Mont
Le Petit Nice
Not to be confused with the 3 star hotel which bears the same name on the corniche road… here we are a far cry from the champagne and glitter. The terrace (which is the largest in the neighbourhood) is always full which means that it is very easy to chat with the customers on the nearby
tables. Here we are not looking for a calm and tranquil bar, quite the opposite, it’s noisy and intimate. The bar is held by a former European boxing champion (which explains the posters inside). And last but not least: the cheapest draughts are sold here!
Closed on Sunday and Monday.
28 Place Jean Jaurès
La Boite à Sardine
This is not a place you are used to going to: it’s a fishmonger/restaurant with extremely pleasant staff and delicious dishes which are not too expensive. The products are always fresh and of a good quality accompanied by a good chilled white wine! Friday is aïoli day.
You can even enjoy an excellent evening dancing next to sea urchins, soles and other sea products during their Du son du poisson (Fish sounds) events.
If you’re lucky enough to be there when they are organised, they are well worth the detour! Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 8.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.
7 boulevard de la Libération
Le Dernier Métro
You can eat simple but good dishes here at lunchtime for a few euro and drink your coffee in the sun on the terrace which is always full. Don’t be surprised if you tend to linger and end up ordering a bottle of rosé for your aperitif.
It’s a well-known neighbourhood bistro/bar/tobacconist and is open every day.
Open every day from 5.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.
68 boulevard Eugène Pierre
It’s best to come here in the evening but remember to book in advance as this restaurant with its Italian specialties is always full (despite the fact that it’s not small at all!).
It’s renowned for its delightful dishes, homemade fresh pasta, pleasant waiters who always give a good explanation of the menu, selection of wines and also for its large pretty courtyard where you should always try and book your table.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12.00 p.m. to 2.00 p.m. and from 8.00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m.
24 Cours Julien
For the “theatre” atmosphere of this tapas restaurant: it has a large courtyard with enormous wax-covered candelabras (you can even picture an 18th-century writer writing poems with a quill next to you),
velvet curtains, a fountain, soft red light – we feel so good here that we often stay longer than expected. Both festive and romantic, it’s perfect for couples or with friends.
A unique setting which serves late, very late and which is very popular: don’t forget to book if you don’t want to wait too long.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7.00 p.m. to 1.00 a.m.
102 rue Ferrari
Renowned throughout the area. It’s THE seafood restaurant in Marseille. Open every day throughout the year, it is always full which does not prevent the waiters from providing a quick service and produce that is exquisitely fresh.
Open for more than 50 years, you can go there with your eyes closed! If you don’t fancy dining in the restaurant, they even deliver to your home!
3 Cours Saint Louis
An electro wine bar! A dark room, complete with a dance floor, laser lights, a DJ and great sound we just love! If you are looking for a more relaxed atmosphere, move up to the first floor!
A good selection of wines and really nice owners!
+33 (0)4 96 12 08 47
94 cours Julien
Le Comptoir Dugommier
Well worth the visit: the food is good and they serve late. An old-fashioned bistro atmosphere with a great decoration, part of the wall has been painted in green, there are paintings, an open-plan kitchen with the chef who shouts “HELLO” all the time, in other words a genuine bistro…
You can eat dishes that are both Provencal and surprising, with a menu starter/main course/dessert/glass of wine at €20. A delight!
Open from 8.00 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. (1.00 a.m. on Thursday and Friday). Closed on Saturday and Sunday
14 boulevard Dugommier
An Italian restaurant at a stone’s throw from the Reformed Church. Chez Noël has a warm, family atmosphere but is somewhat noisy (and surprise, surprise you eat on large tables so if you are looking for a touch of privacy this is not the ideal place),
a kitschy rustic-style decoration and pizzas, pasta and dishes that are cooked in a large wood burning oven.
Open from Tuesday to Sunday: 12.00 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 7.00 p.m. to midnight.
04 91 42 17 22
174 la Canebière
You don’t drink wine here but vodka! A unique restaurant / delicatessen in Marseille where 3 succeeding generations invite you to discover Hungarian and Russian cooking! Borshch, Pirojki, Stroganov…
if these dishes don’t mean anything to you, you must go and see the extremely kind owner, Hervé. зеленое дерево! (ok it’s rubbish it means “green tree” … but they’re the only words we know!).
Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 12.00 p.m. to 2.00 p.m. and in the evenings on Friday and Saturday only from 8.00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m.
04 91 54 09 68
6 rue Meolan
an ORGANIC restaurant / delicatessen-store / tearoom. It’s cute, fresh and healthy with a few coloured tables. The menu does not have a great deal of choice but you’ll always find something to tempt you at lunchtime.
There are only organic and gluten-free products here. Did you know that Gaoudina means to enjoy yourself in Provencal … Open from Monday to Friday from 10.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 75 90 14
100 boulevard Baille
Quality traditional French cuisine. It’s a little expensive but you’ll always leave with a full stomach and a smile on your face. Not to be missed: their wine cellar and fireplace.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m. and from 8.00 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. They are closed on Saturday lunchtime.
+33 (0)4 91 48 91 48
59 boulevard Eugène Pierre
Christian is in charge of this somewhat hidden takeaway restaurant. He only works with fresh, seasonal products as respecting nature is essential for him.
He learnt all his techniques while training in Los Angeles with Japanese chefs and apparently is a model pupil! We recommend the chirashi which is delivered by the chef himself on his blue bicycle!
Deliveries from 11.00 a.m. to 2.00 p.m., orders by telephone: +33 (0)6 80 92 98 65 or by email the day before on: email@example.com.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 6.30 p.m. to 8.00 p.m.
31 rue Goudard
a warm and friendly African canteen where you can enjoy a meal for next to nothing (approximately €7…). There’s no wine here – it’s up to you to bring your bottle (don’t worry about a corkscrew – they have one!).
The pastels au poisson (fish cakes) and tomato coulis are excellent as are the other dishes: mafé, lemon chicken, etc…
+33 (0)4 91 92 72 07
96 rue Curiol
Le Casa No Name
A very small restaurant well known by their enthusiastic fans. The menu changes with every season but it is very creative. Furthermore, the wine is very good!
+33 (0)4 91 47 75 82
7 Rue André Poggioli
A green, yellow and red facade: there can be no mistake here, the cuisine is from Senegal. Beware if you are not a lover of spicy dishes! Try the rum with bull’s blood! During the summer there’s a patio which is rather refreshing! Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 7.30 p.m. to 11.00 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 47 72 91
20 rue Pastoret
Le Cours en Vert
For lovers of organic food and for those who want “to eat a healthy and balanced meal today”.
There are two areas: a delicatessen where you can order the Cours en Vert baskets two days in advance which are full of organic vegetables from local producers; and a salad bar (and also a choice of gourmet platters)
so that you can make up your own meal throughout the day. It’s very ingenious; it’s good for health and the staff are very welcoming (please note that credit/debit cards are not accepted!).
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
+33 (0)4 86 77 41 69 – +33 (0)6 75 06 97 90
102 cours Julien
Le Bar des Maraîchers
An old-fashioned neighbourhood bistro with its own regulars. It’s good because it’s friendly and genuine. There’s a piano for customers who want to play music and there are lots of photographs of Léo Férré (the former owner was a fan).
Open from Monday to Friday, from 3.00 p.m. to 2.00 a.m.
100 rue Curiol
Bar Le Champagne
When you arrive at the small square, it’s almost as if you have landed in another town, or rather a small village… It’s an unexpected change of scenery – we don’t really know why but it is!
It is THE neighbourhood bar where you can spend the afternoon in the sun on the terrace reading your newspaper, drinking your coffee or glass of rosé with ice. You can also eat at lunchtime and there’s a great atmosphere there in the evenings during football games.
39 rue château Payan
La Baie du Dragon
A Vietnamese restaurant: the manager is always telling jokes and the Dim Sums are very good! Open from Monday to Saturday from 12.00 p.m. to 2.00 p.m. and from 7.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 92 74 78
8 place Notre Dame du Mont
Les 3 Louches
Local, organic, seasonal products and lots of vegetarian dishes. You can’t miss the red and yellow façade which seems to pull you like a magnet! It’s very cosy inside with exhibitions, concerts, shows and you can eat large-sized salads, soups which change with the seasons,
tartines (open-faced sandwiches), soy steak burgers or other carefully prepared dishes.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7.00 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. and from Wednesday to Saturday from 12.00 p.m. to 2.00 p.m.
+33 (0)9 51 63 30 39
15 rue Crudère
Neighbourhood bar which organises concerts at weekends, ideal if you want to play baby foot with friends while you drink your beer or a game of belotte (card game). A pleasant, relaxing bar.
+33(0)6 82 37 27 09
1 rue Tilsit
Le Nain Jaune
A community games bar (€1 for the evening), a fun concept where you soon feel at home! There’s a different game every evening (call them or look at the slate in the window), you always meet interesting people, you laugh and eat simple, good dishes (often with an Asian feel to them).
Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 7.00 p.m. to midnight.
+33 (0)4 91 47 32 26
55 rue des Frères Barthélémy
La Dame Noir
(yes it would normally be La Dame Noire but there’s no spelling mistake). We recommend you order an au revoir shoshana in this mini bar with its trendy clientele from Marseille and well-established musical selection (electro / minimal).
You’ll be able to choose from sipping their raspberry mojito on the terrace, tasting their Japanese cuisine in their “canteen” at the back of the bar (with genuine Japanese dishes prepared by a genuine Japanese chef who has just arrived from genuine Japan) or shimmy in a romantic dance…
Don’t get there too early – around 10.30 p.m. … Open from Monday to Saturday from 6.00 p.m. to 2.00 a.m.
30 place Notre Dame du Mont
The spirit of New York has installed in Cours Julien. If you want to eat home-made junk food, you can order a classic burger or a surprising burger – here you can enjoy a large variety of hamburgers. In a nice atmosphere with alternative music and trendy decoration, this place is definitely refreshing.
+33 (0)4 91 42 49 03
11, cours Julien
Le Roi du Poulet
The name of the restaurant says it all (The King of Chicken) – nothing more need be added! Alright we’ll just say a few things: it’s a Portuguese snack bar / restaurant where you can order a sandwich to take away or eat there.
It’s undoubtedly the best chicken sandwich in the neighbourhood. Taste some of the Portuguese specialties, they are worth the detour!
From Tuesday to Sunday: 7.00 p.m. to midnight
From Friday to Sunday: 12.00 p.m. to 2.00 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 48 87 92
18 place Notre Dame du Mont
Les Foulards Rouges
Are you looking for Basque dishes? Then get dressed up for a date at Le Foulard Rouge. Do not miss: the Bob’s beer with “Piment d’Espelette” ( which comes from a small village in the French Basque region) and crispy duck burgers.
+33 (0)9 50 07 00 71
7, rue des Trois Rois, Marseille
Le Bar de la Plaine
The neighbourhood bar par excellence. You go to this bar to watch OM (Marseille’s football team) games seated comfortably at the bar or on the terrace.
DJs play music and there are sometimes concerts towards the back of the bar. A cool bar where you can spend a cool moment. It is also the official bar of the Marseille Tout Puissant group of supporters.
Open from Monday to Saturday, from 8.00 a.m. to 2.00 a.m.
+33 (0)4 91 47 50 18
57 place Jean Jaurès
Le Café Vian
Gastronomic specialties of the region and a good selection of wine. This a perfect combinationto spend a pleasant and romantic evening. During the summer time you can sit outside on the terrace.
+33 (0)6 64 15 41 34
12, rue Vian
A pizzeria which has been open for generations (since 1943!), it’s renowned throughout Marseille. Everything is good, the pizzas, the pasta, the desserts…
A lot of Marseillais will tell you that they have the best pitsss (pizzas in Marseille slang) of the town.
The waiter is also very friendly and has huuuuuugggggeeee moustaches!
From Tuesday to Saturday: 7.00 p.m. - midnight
+33 (0)4 91 54 33 96
10 rue d'Aubagne
Le Bistrot Vénitien - Chez Marie
A half Thai/half Italian menu, a leafy restaurant with a cool atmosphere. Marie welcomes you with open arms. And do not miss the deserts, very risky!
+33 (0)4 91 47 34 34
29, cours Julien
A delicious Oriental cake shop / tearoom! If you want to eat a whole load of calories and enjoy yourself at the same time, we recommend the following combination: zlabias (Libyan piped doughnuts),
gazelle horns, a few makrouds (small semolina cakes) and finish with a good slice of Halva cake!
You can buy to take away or drink a cup of tea in the tearoom (there are only 2 or three tables).
+33 (0)4 91 33 48 50
11 rue Rouvière/p>
Les Pieds Dans le Plat
A good wine list, products from the market and a menu at €10 at lunchtime, what more could you ask for?
From Tuesday to Saturday: 12.00 p.m. – 2.00 p.m. and 8.00 p.m. – 10.30 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 48 74 15
10 rue Vian
4 Rue Saint-Thomé, 13002 Marseille
Tel: 09 53 79 45 20
29 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 31 38 21
1 Avenue des Pebrons, 13008 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 73 17 79
We hope you appreciate the play on words [the uterus] (it still makes for a great photo souvenir though) and you’ll be able to visit number 51 where Marcel Pagnol lived from 1908 to 1911!
Place du Chien Saucisse
The dachshund is Serge Scotto, the writer’s mascot and the hero of a number of his detective novels. There are T-shirts, bottles of wine, posters with a picture of a dachshund… he really has become a star here. The square was inaugurated on 14 September 2000.
Place du Chien Saucisse
les rues du Cours Julien
The roads of the Cours Julien are the canvasses of street art, graffs and tags of all kinds. You’ll enjoy sitting comfortably on a terrace in the sun and watch this bustling neighbourhood come to life with its bobos, punks, artists, rebels and musicians. It’s the place to be.
Les escaliers du Cours Julien
After having crossed the refreshing pools (that’s what people say in the summer, but it’s better not to try…) of the Cours Julien, you’ll find yourself at the top of a huge flight of stairs that crosses the Cours Lieutaud.
Better to walk down it though as opposed to walk up it! Despite the constant noise, it offers a unique view over Marseille. It’s even more breathtaking at sunset.
At the end of the Cours Franklin Roosevelt, you’ll find a building which had an unusual and visionary architectural style at the time it was built in 1923 by Gaston Castel, a one-eyed architect!
2 impasse Croix de Régnier
Boulodrome Les trois Mages
Tu tires ou tu pointes? (Are you going to shoot or point?) If you’re still not sure you can always try out your game of boules here… or just watch the more experienced players play!
A bottle of rosé, the sun and a view over the Palais des Arts (the Palace of the Arts): what more could you ask for?
1 rue des Trois Mages
La montée de la grande côte
It's better to go down La Montée de la Grande Côte than up it... Leave the Plateau de la Croix-Rousse, walk down small stairways with street art on the walls and sweeping views across Lyon... and arrive nonchalantly in Presqu'île. It's difficult in heels, but it can be done - we've tested it for you!
Le Pétrin de Provence
If you’re looking for a little snack at 5.00 a.m. on your way back to your hotel, this is THE bakery in Marseille. It is open 24/7 and has a wide variety of bread, delicious cakes and their chicken curry sandwich is quite something else.
68 boulevard Baille
La Cigogne d'Alsace
If you are a sauerkraut lover, there’s La Cigogne d'Alsace! An Alsatian butcher’s and delicatessen where you can find lots of good things like fresh pretzels, gingerbread, sausages etc. The place takes you on a delicious journey far from the south!
5 rue de Lodi
Garabet, Krikor, Rafi and Agop, four Lebanese brothers of Armenian origin, have opened this small (but very complete) Oriental delicatessen where you can come and enjoy homemade specialties which are made at the back of the shop (spinach beureuks, stuffed vine leaves, tomato cream
… it’s hard to choose). You never get tired of their food which is a pure delight for the taste buds…
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 8.30 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. and from 2.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m.
26 rue Saint Michel
« C’est chez Tam-Ky qu’il faut aller acheter tout ce qu’il faut pour la cuisine vietnamienne, c’est le meilleur » dixit Tata Jeanne, 70 ans, vietnamienne habitant dans le 83… et oui on vient de loin pour aller chez chez Tam-Ky. Une épicerie où regorgent sauces en tous genres, pâtes, épices, légumes, nems, rouleaux de printemps, ben-bao, et autres produits, parfois inconnus… On adore les expérimentations, en testant des mets qu’on avait jamais vu, et c’est souvent un succès !
5 rue Halles Delacroix
A gourmet delicatessen – it is full of what dreams are made of… Everything is beautiful, everything is good – it’s the kind of place that dazzles your eyes and taste buds…
You’ll only find carefully selected products here: cheese, caviar, champagne, marvellous desserts… You can also eat here at lunchtime.
Open from Monday to Saturday, from 8.30 a.m. to 8.00 p.m., food is served between 12.00 p.m. and 2.30 p.m.
5 place Notre Dame du Mont
Certain people will tell you that it’s the best cake shop in Marseille. Three generations of the Best Cake Makers, Chocolate Makers and Caterers in France…
if that’s not wonderful I don’t know what is! The cakes can even be custom made and really quickly. In short: they are the Superman of cakes.
99 boulevard Baille
For a nice couscous at lunchtime or a tea in the afternoon with a pyramid of oriental sugar cakes – this is the place to go and only a few minutes away from Mama Shelter. Open until 7 pm.
+33 (0)4 91 53 54 55
21, rue Fontange
L'Arte della Pasta
Here you can buy artisan fresh pasta and in particular their raviolis … mmmm their raviolis…
Open from Monday to Saturday from 8.00 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. and Sunday morning.
74 boulevard Baille
A “creative canteen” or how to enjoy eating healthily at lunchtime. Fresh products, soups and salads which are just crying out to be eaten, original sandwiches, dishes that can be reheated… At home, while you walk or at the canteen. In addition to offering organic food, Spok gives us pleasure.
11 rue Guy Mocquet
L'Art de la Fromagerie
A cheese shop which has more than 300 varieties! You could say: the Mecca of cheese where you’ll always find what you are looking for. The owner has a special kind of humour, a Marseillais humour in other words…
but we always go back and he always remembers us! A genuine cheese shop!
Open from Tuesday to Saturday.
20 rue Saint Michel
Epicerie l’Univers Alimentaire
Ali is the owner of this fabulous delicatessen (we wanted to avoid the play on words but here we go anyway… here it’s Ali Baba’s cavern!). You’ll find EVERYTHING you need:
spices (curry and unlikely spices!), dried fruit, rice, nuts, saffron, verbena, but also natural sponges, Turkish delights, ladles… It smells wonderful when you step inside and it’s hard to know which way to look.
+33 (0)4 91 33 77 49
34 rue d'Aubagne
A gourmet address. Florent opens the doors to happiness with his crunchy sandwiches, quiches that make you want to lick your lips, salads and desserts that are all made with the best local products.
The snacks can be enjoyed in a really pretty setting (an interior courtyard no less) or taken away.
Open from Monday to Saturday from 11.00 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. / Brunch on Saturday from 10.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. / Aperitif on Friday evening until 10.30 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 33 94 01
13 rue Louis Salvator
Confectioner – tearoom – cake shop – ice cream shop – biscuit shop – chocolate shop, in a baroque decor which has been there since 1820! Here you walk into another world and feel really good! With a bit of luck you might even bump into Michel Galabru!
+33 (0)4 91 48 06 67
168 La Canebière
Patrice's Bagel Store
Welcome to New York! One of the rare places in Marseille where the Bagel is king and where it is especially good! You choose your bread, its ingredients, and then take a seat and enjoy.
For the gourmets, Patrice also has cheesecakes (mmmm..), muffins and other delicacies that are full of calories but make people feel so happy.
Open from Monday to Saturday, from 10.00 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 25 44 16
133 bis rue de Lodi
Why didn’t anybody think of it before… as we are not far from the Vieux Port? A snack bar which does not sell sandwiches, kebabs or French fries but products from the sea!
Deep-fried fish, mange-tout (small fish), calamari, little cuttlefish garnished with parsley, fried octopus or even panisses (a Provencal-style thick pancake made with chickpea flour). It’s a really good idea and ideal for aperitifs.
Open from Friday to Saturday, from 12.00 p.m. to 3.00 p.m. and from 6.00 p.m. to 11.00 p.m.
+33 (0)6 62 17 90 46
13 rue des 3 Mages
Biscuit & Biscuit
A “coffee shop” that the girls are going to love! Because the biscuit is a cake but also pottery that has been fired but not yet glazed, we come here to taste delicious shortbreads, cupcakes, cheesecakes and cookies but also to take part in pottery workshops!
You can enjoy your breakfast / lunch / snack here in a setting that looks very much like a doll’s house.
Open on Monday from 2.30 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. and from Tuesday to Saturday from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
+33 (0)4 84 26 74 96
9 rue de Lodi
Pick Me Up
A soup and vegetarian / organic yoghurt bar! In an area which is more focused on spices and good couscouses it was a bold thing to do! Fantastic homemade yoghurts where you can choose your toppings and the choice is difficult: mango cream, pistachio, praline, violet purée, mulberry jam…
And then there are soups, quiches – all in all only good things that are good for the body and the mind.
Open from Monday to Saturday from 8.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
+33 (0)6 11 56 77 07
5 rue de la Palud
L’Éléphant Rose à Pois Blancs
The pink elephant with white spots lives in a magical hyper-coloured world where he only eats fresh and natural products. He’s a vegetarian and particularly loves ice creams!
Here everything is fantastic… there’s quiche-salad or quiche-soup for €7 at lunchtimes followed by ice creams (carefully prepared artisanal ice cream made with real fruit from the market) like: ginger-flavoured ice cream with large pieces of milk chocolate, apple pie-flavoured ice cream,
limoncello-flavoured (lemon-flavoured liqueur) ice cream, ginger-biscuit flavoured ice cream, spicy-caramel flavoured ice cream, violet tea-flavoured ice cream…
But also savoury ice creams: with flavours such as lemon dill, foie gras, thyme… you either like it or you don’t but it cannot be denied that it’s surprising! (I can see your mouth watering from here…).
Summer: open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. and on Sunday from 3.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m. / winter: open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12.00 p.m. to 7.30 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 47 34 68
3 rue des Trois Rois
Snack Piment Thaï
This is a place where we would never have gone… but it is in actual fact a Thai canteen with good, quickly-served food which does not hurt the wallet!
Open from Monday to Friday from 10.30 a.m. to 10.30 p.m., on Saturday from 10.30 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. and on Sunday from 2.00 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 31 17 01
4 cours Lieutaud
A pizza truck which is run by Karim, an emblematic figure of Marseille. Karim is a break dancer, boxer and also: a pizzaiolo! Go there to eat a slice of pizza and chat for a while or if you are really hungry order a large pizza (they’re huge) to take away!
14 boulevard Baille
Les 4 saisons d'Estelle
Want to fuss-free fast food in a canteen atmosphere? Go and see Estelle who will provide seasonal, simple and generous grub.
+33 (0)9 81 68 12 34
104, rue Notre-Dame
La Réserve à Bulles
A comic book paradise. Run by a couple who are mad about books, you can come here to read, buy, discover or even meet guest authors.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.00 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. and from 2.30 p.m. to 7.30 p.m.
76 rue des Trois Frères
A small bookshop which is specialised in foreign language books. It has existed for more than 30 years.
Open from Monday to Friday: 9.30 a.m. – 12.15 p.m. / 2.00 p.m. - 6.45 p.m.
Saturday: 9.30 a.m. – 12.00 p.m. / 3.00 p.m. – 6.00 p.m.
+33 (0)4 91 42 63 44
95 rue de Lodi
L’histoire de l’œil
A bookshop – exhibition venue which is specialised in art (and also detective novels, poetry, theatre, children’s literature, etc.) where you can find rare and quite specific books.
You can also drink a good hot (or cold) drink while you read in the conservatory in the winter or in the interior courtyard in the summer.
+33 (0)4 91 48 29 92
25 rue Fontange
A cultural location, a bar which organises events in the evening from time to time and a restaurant at lunchtime and in the evening… There is a lot going on at Waaw!
We can recommend the generous dishes at lunchtime. You can also visit their website to be informed of the cultural events organised in the city and why not become a waami!
Open from Tuesday to Saturday.
+33 (0)4 91 42 16 33
17 rue Pastoret
A gallery which is run by graphic artists, DJs, illustrators… people in the groove in other words! They exhibit a new artist every month: photos, graffiti, painting… Go check them out!
16 rue Fontange
Rebuilt at the beginning of the 19th century, its architecture and paintings are remarkable. In 1839 Chopin also played the organ here – would you believe it!
Maison de Fernandel
Fernandel was born here! You can take THE photo here in front of the building with your two thumbs up.
72 boulevard Chave
Eglise des Réformés
An example of gothic architecture which houses splendid mosaics.
4 cours Franklin Roosevelt
Vol de nuit
A cool place to exchange views and meet other people around photographic images with exhibitions, courses (conventional films but also digital images, no one will mind…), and a free black and white photo lab provided you’ve booked in advance.
6 rue Sainte-Marie
A silk-screen printing workshop covering 120 sq. m, with huge extraordinary machines, artistic projects, openings, events and other interesting things… their website: www.tchikebe.com.
+33 (0)6 01 75 46 99
4 rue de la Bibliothèque
Palais des Arts
The cultural high point: the building was built by the architect, Espérandieu, between 1864 and 1874 to house the School of Fine Arts and the town’s library. It is today the conservatory and houses the Regards de Provence foundation (with exhibitions on Provence obviously…).
1 place Auguste Carli
Dance, theatre, circus arts, screenings, exhibitions, shows, this cultural site was built on the vestiges of a former monastery which dated back to 1248. Its vaulted room can still be seen today.
Programmes at: www.dakiling.com.
+33 (0)4 91 33 45 14
45 rue d'Aubagne
L’atelier-maison de Franck Garam
We should normally have created a category apart for this one entitled “unusual”. There’s an extraordinary workshop, hidden behind a gate, in a courtyard where Franck,
an unbelievable collector, transforms recycling into an art. It’s hard to know which way to look there. The workshop is closed the majority of the time. If you’re lucky you’ll bump into the artist but it’s best to call before…
+33 (0)4 91 42 86 94
30 boulevard de la Libération
You cannot make a choice between a beautiful garden, and an interesting museum. The Palais Longchamps offers you all of that, and more...
boulevard du Jardin Zoologique
A concert hall for electronic music and concerts. An unforgetable nightclub in Marseille.
+33 (0)4 91 24 34 10
39, cours Julien
This nightclub is open until 5 am. Come here to end your amazing night by dancing to electronic music.
+33 (0)7 63 76 25 25
2 rue André Poggioli
127 Rue Sainte, 13007 Marseille
17 rue Ferrari 13005 Marseille
Tel: 06 03 00 68 36
59 Rue d'Endoume, 13007 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 90 74 21
Le Club XO
38 Rue Saint-Saëns, 13001 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 33 36 09
La Part des Anges
33 Rue Sainte, 13001 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 33 55 70
The Queen Victoria
1 Place aux Huiles, 13001 Marseille
Tel: 04 96 11 01 80
24 Quai de Rive Neuve, 13007 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 54 30 45
23 Place Thiars 13001 Marseille
Tel: 06 38 98 74 19
La Dame noir
30 Place Notre-Dame-Du-Mont 13006 Marseille
1 esplanade du J4 - 13002 Marseille
Tel: +33 (0) 4 84 35 13 13
Le Musée des beaux-Arts
7 Rue Édouard Stephan, 13004 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 14 59 25
69 Avenue de Haïfa, 13008 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 25 01 07
La Villa Méditerranée
Esplanade J4, 13002 Marseille
Tel: 04 95 09 42 52
Hôtel de Ville
Quai du Port, 13002 Marseille
1 rue des Trois mages, 13001 Marseille
Le Port de l’Estaque
90 Plage de l'Estaque, 13016 Marseille
La Maison Diamantée
3 Rue de la Prison, 13002 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 13 20 13
the Ali Baba cavern of art-house video where you will not only find the film of the same name by David Cronenberg but also walls packed with auteur films, documentaries, Japanese films, from all countries, all types and in particular treasures that cannot be found elsewhere.
There is also a video library where enthusiasts linger and where a piece of advice is transformed into a thesis on the film industry. You can even watch VHS tapes or DVDs here for only €2. Open every day from 3.00 p.m. to 10.00 p.m.
8 rue Vian
You can’t miss it - you only have to follow the big yellow armchair… A second-hand / stock-clearance boutique of new or vintage clothing with brands like:
Dedikate, Maje, Paul & Joe etc… All in all, a pretty shop for ladies where you can talk trainers with Damien or about Liberty with Christina.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
16 rue Pastoret
The manager has been collecting film posters since … always? Thousands of posters which are classed by type, alphabetical order, country… You can buy the poster of the latest film and an original edition of West Side Story.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 11.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
9 Cours Julien
a vinyl records shop which specialises in soul and black music. If you want to meet the owner, he’s hiding behind the counter! Feel free to ask him for advice and hunt in the stock of 45’s.
Open from Monday to Saturday from 11.00 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.
31 rue des Trois Rois
Ironmonger’s, kitchen-ware shop (which specialises in cutlery), kitchen and cake-making utensils… you can find absolutely EVERYTHING at the Empereur!
The shop has been open since 1845 which accounts for its title of “the oldest ironmonger’s in France and beyond”. Everything you need and cannot find elsewhere is at Maison Empereur (and to top it all it rhymes!)
Open from Monday to Saturday from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
13 rue des Récolettes
A shop for collectors which is run by a collector… of TOYS! There are no wooden toys here, everything is 100% plastic and most importantly vintage. The owner is a fan of Grendizer – everything you need to relive your childhood memories…
53 Cours Lieutaud
La Cave de Baille
This is much, more than a simple wine cellar. Beyond the facade which does not look anything special, inside there’s a hidden interior courtyard where you can eat seasonal menus at lunchtime while tasting excellent selections of wines (in moderation of course…).
Thursday evening is “vinologist” night where you can talk about wine with winemakers, eat cooked meats, cheese and tapas.
Open from Tuesday to Friday from 10.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. and on Saturday from 4.00 p.m. to 8.30 p.m.
133 boulevard Baille
“Darling, I would like to listen to some Hard Rock”: that can happen to anybody, at any time in the day, and in particular if you have forgotten your player at the Mama…
Don’t worry, we have a solution for you! Head for Sabre-Tooth, a vinyl store which is specialised in Hard rock / Hardcore, etc… and what’s more the manager is a fan of Motörhead – you can tell by the photographs on the walls!
19 rue des Trois Mages
a vintage and second-hand boutique where Aurélia and William display articles for both men and women who are looking for that “special little thing”. And as they are really sweet they’ve even thought about dressmakers with their pieces at €2.
15 rue des Trois Mages
Professional or amateur – here you are going to find what you are looking for, digital cameras, SLR, Lomo or Polaroid.
+33 (0)4 91 47 08 83
70, boulevard Chave
Le Père Blaize
A herbalist’s which has been open since 1815, full of jars of plants of all kinds, good advice, a gold mine for alternative medication. If you use this type of medication this is the place to go! (Don’t forget to bring cash as they do not accept debit/credit cards).
Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and from 2.30 p.m. to 6.30 p.m.
4-6 rue Méolan
Coutellerie de Lodi
Has been open since 1896 and nothing has changed since that date. The furniture is still in the same place. This is the realm of knives and sharpening equipment.
And don’t forget to give a coin to somebody who gives you a knife as a gift otherwise your friendship will break – if you believe in the superstition…
5 rue de Lodi
A decoration shop: furniture, accessories, lighting… You can spend hours here just looking at everything (and there are so many things to look at), finding the object you want, and you never leave the shop without something.
A good selection and to find the shop: follow the pots and the black façade!
Open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 10.30 a.m. to 1.00 p.m. and from 2.00 p.m. to 7.00 p.m. (apart from Saturdays when they are open nonstop)
3 rue Pastoret
a barber shop. When you get nearer you realise that it is full of all sorts of musical instruments! Understandable when you learn that Claude is not only a barber but a music connoisseur and a talented player!
He is an emblematic figure in the street who can be seen holding either a trumpet or a pair of scissors. Come what may Claude is a true artist!
Open from Tuesday to Saturday.
7 rue de l'Olivier
Au Tour de l'Enfant
One of the rare shops today which sells traditional toys: pedal cars, wooden toys, puppets, educational toys – you’ll love everything!
Open from Tuesday to Friday from 10.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. and on Saturday from 10.00 a.m. to 1.30 p.m.
110 Cours Julien
Situated in the middle of motorbike dealers, it is one of the oldest toy shops in Marseille. For the young and the old alike, it is a genuine Ali Baba cavern.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 9.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
33 cours Lieutaud
The ideal store for buying gorgeous jewelry. It’s not expensive and unique because all of them are limited edition pieces. You can find creative handbags and clothes as well.
+33 (0) 4 91 37 23 29
30a, rue des Trois Rois
Between a store and a gallery, Charivani is a mix of creative people: photographers, painters, sculptors, furniture manufacturers and jewelry designers. Their pieces are unique and limited.
+33 (0)4 88 64 36 19
7, rue Fontange
Fietje – Cave à Bières
“Fietje” – this is the sound a beer bottle makes when you open it. Here you can find more than 200 different types of beer and it’s not far away from MAMA.
+33 (0)4 91 58 81 62
36, rue des Trois Frères Barthélémy
55 Cours Julien, 13006 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 53 10 70
132 Rue d'Aubagne, 13001 Marseille
Tel: 04 91 47 82 97
L’atelier mobile des fées bizart
8 Rue des trois rois 13006 MARSEILLE
Marché Paysan du Cours Julien
In a word (or a few) you’ll find organic products from small producers: everything that’s good and seasonal.
Marché de Noailles / Capucins
A very popular market where you’ll find fish, vegetables, fruit, African products… Don’t come too dressed up. This is a typical Marseille market where you’ll often hear people yell “oh fada” (“oh you idiot”). The prices here are unbeatable.
Rue du Marché des Capucins
Marché aux Livres
On the Cours Julien, every 2nd Saturday of the month.
Let’s get your sense of smell working! Here they make custom-designed fragrances - so for those of you who are sick and tired of smelling like your neighbour (we are exaggerating a little bit here…) here’s your chance to put an essence of your personality into a pretty bottle.
+33 (0)4 91 55 70 28
44 rue de la Palud
If you want to be pampered and relax, here’s the place to come for some shiatsu and also moxibustion: heat is applied to the same acupuncture points!
+33 (0)6 83 23 07 52
12 rue Poggioli
A few miles away from MAMA, 10 meters from the Skate Park Borély, you will be able to relax on the Beach where 40 beach chairs are specially booked for the MAMA guests.
But please note, you will need to book you chair in advance. Reservations need to be done at MAMA’s reception.
Avenue Pierre Mendes France